Saturday, 14 February 2015

Hampi! Or the weekend Niamh got too excited over some ruins..

Honestly, this is my third and final holiday of January.  Promise.  This time it was for Republic Day and we headed to Hampi for a long weekend with Tabs and Ruth again.   We see them far too much..

We got a sleeper train there.  A lovely 14 hour train that stopped in all the stops along the way.  However, it did go right through the middle of nowhere so when I got up in the middle of the night to close the window, it was beautiful to look out onto basically these plain with palms trees dotted along the way and the stars which were so bright.  But I was a wee bit too cold and tired to appreciate it.   Tabs and Ruth were arriving a bit later than us so we had a bit of a wait.  We headed to our hotel, which turned out not to be the hotel we thought, and then it turned out that they had given our room away!  But it was okay, they were going to sort it!  So, not really worrying about it, we went out for a walk.  Tabs did warn us not to do any ruin watching without her, but as we soon found out, that was much harder than it sounded.  There were ruins everywhere.  And honestly, I mean everywhere.  It was amazing.  Even the police station and the bank were in one of the old bazaars.  I absolutely loved it.  We thought we’d go for a wee walk up this hill, thinking we’d maybe see the river or something but we actually ended up finding an amazing temple and the main bazaar.  It looked like the monkey temple from the Jungle Book and I actually just wanted to walk around touching everything.  Despite the majority of the buildings in Hampi being built in the 1300s, everything was so well preserved.  It really was beautiful.  Even all the intricate carvings and stuff were still really clear.  Even if some of them were fairly Kama Sutra like.  Although that may have been because we found the old Red Light District…


This was literally my stairway to heaven
Where I'm convinced the Jungle Book was set



After Tabs and Ruth arrived, we headed to dinner.  Again another chance for me to eat non-Indian food.  Chapatti all the time just isn’t interesting!  Heading back to the hotel, we saw our bed for the evening.  It was two mattresses on the floor underneath a mosquito net.  Now I say mosquito net, but any mosquito determined enough to want to get in could have because of the two rather large holes.  It maybe wasn’t the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had, mainly due to fact that I was concerned about getting eaten by a sloth bear and trying to scare that rat-maybe-cat away from our bags, but it was the most interesting I think I’ll have in a while.  We headed out for the day armed with our lonely planet guide, and bottles and bottles of water.  I seriously think I drank about 9 litres that day.  Our plan was to go the Royal Centre because that was at bit further away so we took an auto there and started from the start!  We went this underground temple that was partly filled with water so we had to wade a little bit through but it was amazing.  Apparently there was a bit in the middle of the temple that I think was a dancing platform, or something.  But the woman may have been telling us that we could dance if we wanted to.  Who knows?  It was amazing to just wander round this old city.  There was so much to look at and see and I could have wandered around it for weeks.  It was amazing.  Cue all the history geek jokes from the other three.  But to be honest, I really didn’t mind though, I was too busy trying to touch everything.  And it was surprisingly quiet for India and for a holiday.  Which was amazing because after the Shore Temple in Mahabs, I was dreading Hampi being that busy as well.  But there were times when we had the place to ourselves.   We also went to see the Vittala Temple and that was amazing as well.  Although slightly busier than the rest of Hampi, it was still beautiful, especially as we went as the sun was beginning to go down so the light off the ruins was amazing. 




I was just wandering off to touch some more walls and stuff.  It was far too exciting,

Elegance personified

Our bed.  With Ruth, Tabs and Sarah still in it
I honestly could have skipped around this all day 

Everything's a farm in India


Being elephants in the Elephant Stables






We got back to the village of Hampi later that day, went to our hotel but the people there were trying to charge us more than we had agreed and we just not being very pleasant about it all, saying that we were out all day when they could have given our room to someone else who would pay the amount they were asking.  But why would we stay at the hotel all day when there were loads of ruins to see!? But we’ve been in India long enough now to know not to stand for any of that any more.  They’re just trying to rip us off.  So we headed off to find another hotel.  Luckily, the hotel we thought we had originally phoned but hadn’t (if you’re ever in Hampi and try to book a hotel from the Lonely Planet, just make sure you’re booking for the hotel you it says,  I think they’ve changed numbers) and they were lovely enough to let us stay in their rooftop café for free!  Which was amazing.  So we ordered a lot for dinner that night…  The rooftop café was amazing.   It was so nice to be able to look out under the roof to the stars and it was so comfy!   If I hadn’t been so tired and needed to fall asleep I would have appreciated it so much more! 

The next morning was another early one and other trip to the really clean, but really expensive, 10 rupees (okay yes, that is 10p but usually toilets here are 2), public toilets where all the local Indians were getting ready for their day.  It was Republic Day so we were greeted on the way in (after we had a waited for a really scary cow to move out the way of the door)  by a really excited man wishing us Happy Republic Day.  We planned to go on a coracle, well I didn’t, I’m not a fan of boats, but the others did.  However, the people who had the coracles were trying to charge them 400 rupees, far too much for a quick jaunt over the river.  So we just walked to other temple.  We just went to the one Sarah and I had been to because the other two hadn’t seen it yet.  While we were there we saw another ruined temple up a hill and decided to go and see it.  We maybe shouldn’t have gone up in the middle of the day with not much water but it was worth it for the view.  Despite my inelegance and lack of proper walking skills we all made it up alive!  And it was beautiful.  We could all the way across Hampi and it was amazing.  The terrain all the way around it really was incredible and all the ruins looked amazing from the top of the hill. 






Later that day we went out to the main working temple in Hampi which was really busy but it looked amazing.  And we think there may have been a wedding going on…  There was an elephant we could have been blessed by, Lakshmi, but she was a very smart elephant and knew when someone gave her less than 10 rupees so she wouldn’t bless you.  And with us all being tight, we just settled for looking at the elephant instead.  Then it was some shopping time!  Obviously.  But fun trousers are too hard to resist.  And after Sarah almost getting rabies from a monkey, we decided it was time for dinner.  At dinner we met a girl who was travelling India and then some more of Asia who had just finished in the north so we were grilling her on tips she had for when were up there.  It was actually remarkably helpful, thank you Becky!  Sarah and I had to run off to catch our bus a bit earlier than Tabs and Ruth so we had to say bye!  We’ve seen them so often in the last few months that it feels strange that we might not see them for a while!  So we’re currently planning a meet up at some point because going more than a few weeks is just going to be too hard! 

Lakshmi!  

So, the bus!  Well, when we booked it, it said it left from Hampi.  On the ticket it said our get on point was Hampi, I asked at a travel agent in Hampi and they said we could get on in Hampi.  However, when we got there, we discovered that it didn’t go from Hampi!  And our bus was due to leave in 10 from Hospet, half an hour away.  Thankfully, a lovely couple came to our rescue and phoned the bus company who said it would be okay, it would leave at half 8.  So after a rather fast rickshaw ride to Hospet we made it to our bus with plenty of time!  Now, sleeper buses seem like a great idea, but not when your bed is right at the back of the bus, so that you’re looking out onto all cars behind.  It was interesting though.  And I did manage to sleep, even if I was woken up every so often as I flew off the bed when the driver forgot to slow down to go over the bumps. 


We were dropped off at half four in the morning, a quick two and a half hours sleep at home, and back to school.  We are very dedicated to teaching I have to say.  Although not as dedicated as Tabs and Ruth who were getting into Tirupathi at quarter to 9 and were getting a rickshaw straight to school for 9. 

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